1371 lines
133 KiB
HTML
1371 lines
133 KiB
HTML
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<title>Réparations Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW – HugoPoi</title>
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font-size: 42px;
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<meta name="generator" content="WordPress 5.6" />
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<div class="wrapper post-586 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-aventure-pc category-dossiers tag-2232bw tag-clignotements tag-condensateur tag-demarrage tag-demontage tag-demonter tag-reparer tag-samsung tag-syncmaster-2232bw default ">
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<div class="title-logo-wrapper">
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title="HugoPoi">
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<p>HugoPoi</p></a>
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<div id="primary" class="boxed-layout-header page-header header-small" data-parallax="active" ><div class="container"><div class="row"><div class="col-md-10 col-md-offset-1 text-center"><h1 class="hestia-title entry-title">Réparations Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW</h1><h4 class="author">Publié par <a href="/author/hugopoi/" class="vcard author"><strong class="fn">HugoPoi</strong></a> le <time class="entry-date published" datetime="2012-01-15T17:00:25+01:00" content="2012-01-15">15 janvier 2012</time><time class="updated hestia-hidden" datetime="2017-04-06T12:18:05+02:00">15 janvier 2012</time></h4></div></div></div><div class="header-filter" style="background-image: url(/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/IMG_20170528_085824.jpg);"></div></div>
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<div class="single-post-wrap entry-content"><p>Allô docteur on a un problème,</p>
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<p>En ce dimanche calme avant la fin de mes partiels, mon écran Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW commençait à faire des siennes. Celui-ci depuis un mois ou deux clignotait de façon systématique au démarrage, au début pendant seulement quelques secondes, puis au fur et à mesure, de plus en plus jusqu’à devoir attendre 10 minutes pour que je puisse l’utiliser. Après 3 ans et 4 mois de bons et loyaux services, il voulait me quitter. J’ai tenté le support Samsung par email avec peu d’espoir car l’écran a dépassé sa garantie de 4 mois (oui oui les bâtards -> <a title="Wikipédia" href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obsolescence_programm%C3%A9e" target="_blank">obsolescence programmée</a>). Et donc j’ai eu le droit à un joli mail automatique me disant de contacter un numéro non surtaxé (mais avec combien de temps d’attente ?), ce que je n’ai pas fait car je n’avais pas envie de passer 30min au téléphone pour au final avoir un « On est désolé mais on ne peut rien faire pour vous car la garantie est dépassée, mais on peut envoyer votre écran en SAV pour faire un devis pour seulement 50 boules ». Concernant le support email de Samsung France, je leur donne une note de 0/20 puisque ce n’est pas un support mais une redirection vers le téléphone.</p>
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<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/n7YBX2IWrdc" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe><span id="more-586"></span></p>
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<h3>Symptômes</h3>
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<p>Clignotements de l’écran et de la LED power systématiques à chaque démarrage de l’écran. Je me suis tout de suite douté d’un problème d’alimentation et après quelques recherches sur google, confirmation du problème sur beaucoup d’écrans et téléviseurs. Dans 99% des cas ce clignotement est dû à des condensateurs défectueux qu’il faut simplement changer :-D</p>
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<h3>Démontage</h3>
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<p>Donc après avoir cerné le problème, j’ai ouvert l’écran pour chercher les condos défectueux. J’ai trouvé une petite vidéo pour mon écran :</p>
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<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ul5LhuCT1y8" width="420" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe></p>
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<p>Voici quelques photos en plus pour vous aider :</p>
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<div id="attachment_615" style="width: 630px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools.jpg"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-615" loading="lazy" class="size-large wp-image-615" title="Tools" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="465" srcset="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools-1024x768.jpg 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools-300x225.jpg 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools.jpg 1280w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-615" class="wp-caption-text">Les outils que j’ai utilisé pour le démontage</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_614" style="width: 630px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages.jpg"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-614" loading="lazy" class="size-large wp-image-614" title="Clips" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages-1024x529.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="320" srcset="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages-1024x529.jpg 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages-300x155.jpg 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages.jpg 1280w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-614" class="wp-caption-text">Position des clips</p></div>
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<div id="attachment_603" style="width: 630px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2012-01-12-20.57.43.jpg"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-603" loading="lazy" class="size-large wp-image-603" title="Carte d'alimentation dans son emplacement" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2012-01-12-20.57.43-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="465" srcset="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2012-01-12-20.57.43-1024x768.jpg 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/2012-01-12-20.57.43-300x225.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-603" class="wp-caption-text">Carte d’alimentation dans son emplacement</p></div>
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<p>Et voici les condensateurs qui posent problèmes. Comme vous pouvez le voir sur la photo, ils sont très facilement identifiable car ils sont bombés sur le dessus.</p>
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<div id="attachment_613" style="width: 630px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Condensateurs-usés.jpg"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-613" loading="lazy" class="size-large wp-image-613" title="Condensateurs défectueux" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Condensateurs-usés-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="620" height="465" srcset="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Condensateurs-usés-1024x768.jpg 1024w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Condensateurs-usés-300x225.jpg 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Condensateurs-usés.jpg 1280w" sizes="(max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px" /></a><p id="caption-attachment-613" class="wp-caption-text">Condensateurs défectueux</p></div>
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<p>Vous devez donc acheter des condensateurs de remplacement, par exemple sur <a title="Condensateurs sur Conrad" href="http://www.conrad.fr/condensateur_chimique_radial_standard_c_48674_49055_49059" target="_blank">Conrad</a>.</p>
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<p>Mes condensateurs suivant étaient endommagés:</p>
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<ul>
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<li>1 de 330uF 25V remplacé par un 470uF 25V</li>
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<li>3 de 820uF 25V remplacé par des 1000uF 50V</li>
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</ul>
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<p>Pour la réparation, il vous faut un fer à souder avec une panne pas trop grosse mais d’une grosse puissance car les soudures sont très solides (j’ai galéré avec un fer pro qui monte jusqu’à 400°).</p>
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<p>Tout remarche nickel après remontage, plus de clignotement pour seulement quelques euros.</p>
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<p>edit du 19 aout 2014 : j’ai trouvé le service manuel de l’écran si besoin <a href="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/samsung_2232bw_chassis_lpe22bs_sm.rar">samsung_2232bw_chassis_lpe22bs_sm</a></p>
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Carte d’alimentation dans son emplacement
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Condensateurs défectueux
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<a href='/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages.jpg'><img width="150" height="150" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/points-déclipçages-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail" alt="" loading="lazy" aria-describedby="gallery-1-614" /></a>
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Position des clips
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<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>
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<a href='/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools.jpg'><img width="150" height="150" src="/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Tools-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail" alt="" loading="lazy" aria-describedby="gallery-1-615" /></a>
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<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-615'>
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Les outils que j’ai utilisé pour le démontage
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<div class="entry-categories">Catégories : <span class="label label-primary"><a href="/category/dossiers/aventure-pc/">Aventure PC</a></span><span class="label label-primary"><a href="/category/dossiers/">Dossiers</a></span> </div>
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<div class="entry-tags">Étiquettes :<span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/2232bw/" rel="tag">2232BW</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/clignotements/" rel="tag">clignotements</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/condensateur/" rel="tag">condensateur</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/demarrage/" rel="tag">démarrage</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/demontage/" rel="tag">demontage</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/demonter/" rel="tag">démonter</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/reparer/" rel="tag">réparer</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/samsung/" rel="tag">samsung</a></span><span class="entry-tag"><a href="/tag/syncmaster-2232bw/" rel="tag">SyncMaster 2232BW</a></span></div> </div>
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<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" width="20" height="17"><path fill="currentColor" d="M502.3 190.8c3.9-3.1 9.7-.2 9.7 4.7V400c0 26.5-21.5 48-48 48H48c-26.5 0-48-21.5-48-48V195.6c0-5 5.7-7.8 9.7-4.7 22.4 17.4 52.1 39.5 154.1 113.6 21.1 15.4 56.7 47.8 92.2 47.6 35.7.3 72-32.8 92.3-47.6 102-74.1 131.6-96.3 154-113.7zM256 320c23.2.4 56.6-29.2 73.4-41.4 132.7-96.3 142.8-104.7 173.4-128.7 5.8-4.5 9.2-11.5 9.2-18.9v-19c0-26.5-21.5-48-48-48H48C21.5 64 0 85.5 0 112v19c0 7.4 3.4 14.3 9.2 18.9 30.6 23.9 40.7 32.4 173.4 128.7 16.8 12.2 50.2 41.8 73.4 41.4z"></path></svg>
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41 commentaires </h3>
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<div class="comment even thread-even depth-1 media" id="comment-93">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fac892c34d28aaa9f0afa2de42d9453a?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fac892c34d28aaa9f0afa2de42d9453a?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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c'est_moi <small>
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· 30 janvier 2012 à 18 h 57 min </small>
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<p>Mille mercis et mille félicitations pour cette fiche technique si pédagogue.</p>
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<p>J’espère que le partiels se passent plus que parfait !!</p>
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<p>J’ai gardé l’url de la page pour réparer mon écran dans un petit mois : j’espère que la page soit toujours là ;-)</p>
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<p>Merci encore.</p>
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<div class="comment odd alt thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 parent media" id="comment-96">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/78479569f221096ffade47556429f063?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/78479569f221096ffade47556429f063?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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Maxime <small>
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· 5 mai 2012 à 12 h 31 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour HugoPoi!</p>
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<p>Merci pour toutes vos infos et votre topic, je voulais avoir quelques précisions sur les condos à changer pour samsung 2232bw, je veux passer commande mais j’ai un problème avec les dimensions des condos, si vous pouvez m’informer de ce que je pourrais acheter car il y a trop de références. En vous remerciant A+ Maxime</p>
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<a rel='nofollow' class='comment-reply-link' href='/2012/01/15/reparations-samsung-syncmaster-2232bw/?replytocom=96#respond' data-commentid="96" data-postid="586" data-belowelement="comment-96" data-respondelement="respond" data-replyto="Répondre à Maxime" aria-label='Répondre à Maxime'><svg class="svg-text-color" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" width="12px" height="12px"><path d="M8.309 189.836L184.313 37.851C199.719 24.546 224 35.347 224 56.015v80.053c160.629 1.839 288 34.032 288 186.258 0 61.441-39.581 122.309-83.333 154.132-13.653 9.931-33.111-2.533-28.077-18.631 45.344-145.012-21.507-183.51-176.59-185.742V360c0 20.7-24.3 31.453-39.687 18.164l-176.004-152c-11.071-9.562-11.086-26.753 0-36.328z"></path></svg>
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<div class="comment byuser comment-author-hugopoi bypostauthor even depth-2 media" id="comment-102">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 14 juin 2012 à 22 h 56 min </small>
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<p>N’importe quel condensateur polarisé avec des caractéristiques proches devrait marché.</p>
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gaubjezj <small>
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· 14 juin 2012 à 22 h 32 min </small>
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<p>Merci pour le tuto qui m’a bien aidé.<br />
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J’ai utilisé un fer de 40 W avec une panne fine et<br />
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une pompe à dessouder et j’ai retiré les condensateurs sans problème.<br />
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Merci encore (3€40 pour le dépannage).</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 parent media" id="comment-105">
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DragonTribal <small>
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· 2 juillet 2012 à 12 h 02 min </small>
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<p>super merci pour manifique tuto.<br />
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Est-il possible de changer les 5 condensateurs 820uF 25V par des 1000uF 50V? car moi mes 5 condensateurs sont presque HS ;-)</p>
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<p>Cordialement</p>
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<div class="comment byuser comment-author-hugopoi bypostauthor odd alt depth-2 media" id="comment-106">
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 2 juillet 2012 à 12 h 25 min </small>
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<p>Oui je penses que ça marchera étant donné que c’est des valeurs plus grandes.</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-even depth-1 media" id="comment-108">
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FRED <small>
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· 11 juillet 2012 à 19 h 11 min </small>
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<p>Bravo, MERCI.<br />
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Je n’ai encore rien fait…mais j’ai le même problème, et tu me donnes la solution.<br />
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Super.</p>
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<div class="comment odd alt thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 media" id="comment-111">
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<a class="pull-left" href="http://bamboo-tour.com ">
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<a href='http://bamboo-tour.com' rel='external nofollow ugc' class='url'>daninpet</a> <small>
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· 31 août 2012 à 10 h 10 min </small>
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<p>Merci mille fois!</p>
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<p>J’avais ce problème, et j’ai emmener la photo des trucs a remplacer chez le réparateur du coin et voila!! Ça m’a coûté 7 Euros (mais j’habite en Thaïlande)</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-even depth-1 parent media" id="comment-115">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/15bb493ffb8c884bbaea9d97acd54fd2?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/15bb493ffb8c884bbaea9d97acd54fd2?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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moi <small>
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· 15 novembre 2012 à 15 h 25 min </small>
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<p>super mon 2232bw vient de lâcher, les 3 + 1 condos sont gonflés j ai trouvé un 330 en 35v qui traîné sur un écran mort et j’ai commander 5 1000uf 35v sur ebay pour moins de 3 dollars, ca devrait le faire j’espere j’attend d’être livré merci! par contre j’ai qu’un gros pistolet a soudure et un gros fil d’étain, c’est pas évident mais bon ca le fait quand même =)</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9967d633b59d70f79da18c4ce4c0165f?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9967d633b59d70f79da18c4ce4c0165f?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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moi <small>
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· 7 décembre 2012 à 9 h 33 min </small>
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<p>parfait je vient de recevoir les condos; j ai meuler la panne du fer a souder pour la tailler en mine de crayon et j ai reussi a les souder facilement ils étaient un peu plus gros mais ca passe tout juste, mais attention ne pas prendre des plus gros! l écran fonctionne nickel maintenant.</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fadbd9cc31ef60b3d0a30bda636820db?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fadbd9cc31ef60b3d0a30bda636820db?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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Croco <small>
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· 19 janvier 2013 à 18 h 39 min </small>
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<p>Je souhaiterai savoir si tu as utilisé un fer à souder bien précis étant donné que la carte est une multi couche.<br />
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Merci</p>
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<div class="comment byuser comment-author-hugopoi bypostauthor odd alt depth-2 media" id="comment-134">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 12 février 2013 à 22 h 24 min </small>
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<p>Un fer à souder avec une pointe fine suffira. Je viens d’acheter cette merde qui est pas trop mal : <a href="http://www.selectronic.fr/station-de-soudage-economique.html" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.selectronic.fr/station-de-soudage-economique.html</a></p>
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<div class="comment even thread-even depth-1 parent media" id="comment-146">
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momo <small>
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· 10 juin 2013 à 13 h 15 min </small>
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<p>slut je voudrai savoir ou trouvé les condansateur a changer sur mon ecran qui clignote</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 20 juin 2013 à 16 h 18 min </small>
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<p>Magasin d’électronique au détail, et sinon il y a plein de e-commerçant sur le net. Conrad (assez cher), <a href="http://www.electronique-diffusion.fr/index.php?cPath=99_144" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.electronique-diffusion.fr/index.php?cPath=99_144</a> , …</p>
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lokmane <small>
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· 5 juillet 2013 à 16 h 08 min </small>
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<p>merci j’avais un ecran rouge ! et c’etais la tresse qui relie mon ecran votre page m’a aider a l’ouvrir et a le reparer merci bien</p>
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<div class="comment odd alt thread-even depth-1 media" id="comment-154">
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ML <small>
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· 21 août 2013 à 19 h 11 min </small>
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<p>Merci ! Ecran réparé. Halte à l’obsolescence programmée.</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 parent media" id="comment-229">
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raymond <small>
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· 31 octobre 2013 à 13 h 20 min </small>
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<p>ai vu votre vidéo et les explications pour la reparation de mon écran , apparemment le méme probléme l écran passe au noir apres quelque seconde , j ai vu un le condensateur en bas a gauche gonflé , je l ai fait changé (10€) les autre condensateur étant toujour bon d après la personne qui me l a changé , mais j ai toujour le méme probléme cela peut il venir de la carte video a gauche ?</p>
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<div class="comment byuser comment-author-hugopoi bypostauthor odd alt depth-2 media" id="comment-234">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 20 décembre 2013 à 12 h 27 min </small>
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<p>Si la led bleu du bouton power s’éteint aussi c’est un problème d’alimentation sinon c’est plus compliqué et ça peut provenir de condensateurs sur la partie vidéo. Changé tous les plus gros condensateurs sur la partie alimentation pourrait être un bon début même si ils ne paraissent pas endommagé.</p>
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damien <small>
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· 4 novembre 2013 à 0 h 29 min </small>
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<p>bonjour,</p>
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<p>j’ai des crasses coincées entres l’écran et le truc juste derrière, est ce qu’on sais les enlever en démontant la dalle ?</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/874b2707c1da886f75fef877943d7867?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 20 décembre 2013 à 12 h 28 min </small>
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<p>Je ne sais si cette partie de la dalle est démontable, je penses que c’est collé mais vous pouvez essayer.</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0fd4c8fee3db925cf5b08bee99cadf29?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/0fd4c8fee3db925cf5b08bee99cadf29?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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mac <small>
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· 1 décembre 2013 à 17 h 30 min </small>
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<p>Merci HugoPoi, avec ces excellents conseils et tuto vidéo, mon écran est reparti pour une nouvelle vie.<br />
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Pour les composants, si vous êtes sur Paris ou proche. La boutique RAM électroniques est une bonne adresse, 138 bd Diderot 75012 Paris (Place de la Nation).</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/75ab7a4c5b80726eac39834b495b2910?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/75ab7a4c5b80726eac39834b495b2910?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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Bouddhid <small>
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· 16 janvier 2014 à 19 h 21 min </small>
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<p>Merci beaucoup pour ces conseils ! J’étais à 2 doigts de jeter mon écran, le voilà comme neuf pour moins de 5€ ! Vive la bricole !</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 media" id="comment-273">
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9b0465ba5edc41ed40fe296bd9c51289?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9b0465ba5edc41ed40fe296bd9c51289?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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Vincent <small>
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· 17 mai 2014 à 16 h 45 min </small>
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<p>Alors là merci.</p>
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<p>Pour ce post, les photos, la vidéo, tout y est.</p>
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<p>J’ai démonté l’écran assez vite, enlevé la carte, regarder quel condensateurs étaient gonflés,(il y en avaient 4), un magasin d’électronique sur lyon et une heure de démontage, soudure, remontage plus tard, voilà, c’est tout beau.<br />
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Ca ne clignote plus, ça s’allume comme avant, comme neuf.</p>
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<p>Et dire que j’allais jeter cet écran et claquer 350 euros pour un neuf…</p>
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<p>Coût de l’opération pour 4 condensateurs, du fil d’étain 7 euros.</p>
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<p>Je précise que je n’avais jamais fais de soudure sur composant électronique auparavant.<br />
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Comme quoi cette opération de réparation est à la portée de tous.</p>
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Julot <small>
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· 6 juillet 2014 à 13 h 49 min </small>
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<p>Site vraiment détaillé et très claire. J’ai pu dépanner mon écran avec succès. Merci beaucoup pour ces précieuses explications.</p>
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PaniK31 <small>
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· 29 juillet 2014 à 9 h 21 min </small>
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<p>Pas besoin d’une grosse puissance pour le fer, il faut au préalable gratter le vernis sur l’étain afin de pouvoir le faire fondre plus facilement</p>
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R211_IP-45130B <small>
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· 20 août 2014 à 14 h 04 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour à tous,</p>
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<p>Une âme charitable peut-elle me communiquer ce qui est gravé sur la résistance CMS R211 de la carte d’alimentation/inverter IP-45130B qui équipe le SAMSUNG 2232BW ? Cette résistance a pris un coup de tournevis et je n’arrive pas à déterminer sa valeur de résistance car son marquage est effacé et comme le composant est abimé la mesure à l’ohmmètre indique l’infinie.</p>
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<p>Merci par avance.</p>
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<div class="comment even thread-odd thread-alt depth-1 media" id="comment-4543">
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roger <small>
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· 24 octobre 2014 à 17 h 21 min </small>
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<p>Ca refonctionne après échange de 4 condensateurs :<br />
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-un 330uf25v remplacé à l’identique.<br />
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-trois 820uf25v remplacés par 1000uf25v.<br />
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Le tout pour quelques €. Le plus dur était le dessoudage, la tresse n’était pas très efficace contrairement à la pompe.<br />
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Grand merci à HugoPoi.</p>
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Max <small>
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· 26 février 2015 à 16 h 28 min </small>
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<p>ENORME MERCI!! J’ai réparé mon écran en 20mn pour 3,50€, il était à 2 doigts de partir à la déchetterie. Ca faisait des mois qu’il clignotait, et l’allumage mettait parfois plus d’une demi heure. J’ai changé 5 condos 820uf25v et 1 330uf25v, par exactement les mêmes en neuf, et là il démarre au quart de tour! Ca fait plaisir! :)</p>
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rocco michelle <small>
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· 7 octobre 2015 à 10 h 16 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour je ne sais si vous verrez mon message mais je tente…je cherche quelqu’un qui accepterait de changer mes condensateurs sur mon samsung, les réparateurs me demandent 70 à 80 euros et encore ils n’ont pss envie de le faire et me disent d’acheter un nouvel écran. j’aurais bien tenter mais je n’ai pas de matériel et j’ai lu que les condo pouvaient être très dangereux s’ils avaient de la charge alors j’ai la trouille de bidouiller pq je n’y connais rien. si vous êtes de lyon acccepteriez vous de changer mes condensateurs pour 45 euros? merci de votre réponse.</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5eb6f1a9e2c83de6120bd214c4e4e4c4?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5eb6f1a9e2c83de6120bd214c4e4e4c4?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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lecakeseb <small>
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· 27 juillet 2015 à 15 h 26 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour,</p>
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<p>J’ai utilisé la vidéo pour démonter mon écran afin de le nettoyer de 4 bêtes d’orage infiltrés entre le premier écran (noir) et la dalle (blanche) de mon samsung SyncMaster 2232W</p>
|
||
<p>Petits conseils afin de modérer ce que j’ai pu voir dans cette vidéo : </p>
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<p>0 : aspirez, nettoyez l’extérieur de l’écran avant de l’ouvrir et nettoyez la table qui vous servira d’atelier, pour éviter les poussières qui s’infiltreront forcément plus tard si vous ne le faites pas…<br />
|
||
1 : pour ouvrir, utilisez plutôt un couteau à enduire pour la première partie (le cadre). Vous n’abîmerez ainsi pas du tout l’écran. Soyez patients, ne forcez pas ! ça viendra doucement, mais ça viendra. Il m’a fallu à peine 10 minutes, sans détériorer l’écran, sans le griffer… Il est encore nickel !<br />
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||
2 : attention à ne pas déconnecter les fils reliant le cadre à la carte. Inutile pour simplement nettoyer l’écran.<br />
|
||
3 : pour séparer les deux éléments de la dalle entre lesquels les bêtes se sont infiltrées, les doigts suffisent, pas besoin d’outils qui viendraient les endommager. La dalle blanche reste à l’horizontale, l’écran noir sera tenu à la verticale.<br />
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4 : utiliser un chiffon doux ne peluchant pas pour enlever les bêtes (faites-vous aider de quelqu’un qui les enlèvera pendant que vous tenez l’écran extérieur en position verticale).<br />
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5 : repositionnez la colle d’étanchéité qui aurait pu se déplacer, avant de repositionner les deux écrans.<br />
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6 : commencer par refermer par le bas de l’écran (sinon les éléments de réglage situés au bas de l’écran – luminosité, contraste,…- ne se replaceront pas correctement).<br />
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7 : Une fois l’écran refermé, j’ai appliqué un peu de « barrage aux insectes », avec un chiffon à l’arrière de mon écran en insistant surtout sur les bouches d’aération par lesquelles les maudites bestioles ont du s’infiltrer. En espérant ne pas avoir à ouvrir !</p>
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<p>Bon courage à vous !</p>
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Michel Jousserandot <small>
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· 20 janvier 2017 à 20 h 41 min </small>
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<p>Merci pour les conseils au démontage.<br />
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J’avais un problème un peu différent :l’écran ne s’allumait plus du tout. Avec un copain beaucoup plus malin que moi, on a détecté 2 fusibles dont l’un était fichu. On l’a remplacé par un petit fil de cuivre. Et tout a remarché comme avant.<br />
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Il faut surtout faire attention quand on teste la partie haute tension<br />
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Michel.</p>
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Crec <small>
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· 14 juillet 2017 à 10 h 20 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour. Très bons conseils avertis. Merci beaucoup.<br />
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Peut-on avoir les mêmes conseils pour un écran BX2250.<br />
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Merci par avance.<br />
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Crec</p>
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HugoPoi <small>
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· 6 août 2017 à 14 h 03 min </small>
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<p>J’ai pas de BX2250 donc dans le détails non mais si c’est les même symptômes ça doit la même procédure.</p>
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Ferronnier <small>
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· 10 août 2017 à 17 h 42 min </small>
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<p>Un grand merci !<br />
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J’ai changé tous les condensateurs de la partie alimentation de la carte, en déportant certains qui n’avaient pas le même format qu’à l’origine, et ça tourne nickel !</p>
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Nours <small>
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· 1 décembre 2017 à 15 h 17 min </small>
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<p>Ca fait des années que j’ai cet article enregistré dans un coin, en nourrissant l’espoir d’avoir un jour le courage de réparer ce foutu écran… Après plus de cinq ans c’est chose faite \o/<br />
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Un giga, hypra, immense merci pour ce tutoriel tellement bien expliqué et facile d’accès (je n’avais pas touché à un fer à souder depuis… Oh boy 15 ans déjà).<br />
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Après une longue pause, l’écran reprend du service… Jusqu’à la prochaine panne /o/</p>
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Alex <small>
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· 11 août 2018 à 13 h 28 min </small>
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<p>Quelqu’un sait qui pourrait me le faire svp j ai le même problème mais aucun matériel</p>
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David <small>
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· 5 février 2019 à 21 h 06 min </small>
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<p>Merci Hugo pour ce tuto qui m’a déjà servi en 2013 et qui va me resservir aujourd’hui car mon 2ème 2232bw commence à avoir les mêmes symptômes.</p>
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yvan <small>
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· 23 novembre 2019 à 17 h 14 min </small>
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<p>Bonjour<br />
|
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j’ai tenté de changer le condensateur qui avait l’air naze mais ça n’a pas marché … toujours le bouton bleu allumé, l’écran est reconnu par Windows 10 même si l’écran est éteint<br />
|
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grâce au service manuel de l’écran fourni plus haut, j’ai vérifié les tensions jusque sur la carte de la dalle et elles sont correctes, ainsi que sur la carte elle-même, tout est ok, donc je pense que ce n’est plus un problème de condensateur<br />
|
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pour les fusibles, ils ressemblent plutôt à des composants qu’à de simple fusibles, mais comme j’ai les bonnes tension, je ne pense pas que ça vienne de là<br />
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j’ai bien peur que ce soit la dalle qui soit naze ? quelqu’un a t il des idées supplémentaires avant que je le jette avec grand regret (c’est un 2032bw, mais c’est la même chose, même si ma carte électronique est un peu différente car plus récente<br />
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merci d’avance pour vos conseils</p>
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<img alt='' src='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ad23ecb391fe6cda6b83fbae45fb3bd8?s=64&d=mm&r=g' srcset='https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/ad23ecb391fe6cda6b83fbae45fb3bd8?s=128&d=mm&r=g 2x' class='avatar avatar-64 photo' height='64' width='64' loading='lazy'/> </div>
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yvan <small>
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· 24 novembre 2019 à 17 h 26 min </small>
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</h4>
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<p>finalement j’ai trouvé, c’est un petit fusible vert qui ressemble à une résistance mais tout vert avec écrit 4A LF qui assure l’alimentation de la dalle.<br />
|
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En le shuntant, mon écran a retrouvé l’image.<br />
|
||
après enquête il s’agit d’un fusible pico de 4ampères de chez little fuse, pas du tout évident à trouver<br />
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Résolu !</p>
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<a href='/2016/08/22/reflow-dell-1546/' rel='external nofollow ugc' class='url'>Reflow Dell 1546 | HugoPoi</a> <small>
|
||
· 22 août 2016 à 16 h 09 min </small>
|
||
</h4>
|
||
<p>[…] « semi-programmée » depuis le billet que j’avais écrit sur la réparation de mon écran Samsung. Ce mois ci j’ai récupéré un pc portable de marque Dell un 1546 pour être précis. Encore […]</p>
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<a rel='nofollow' class='comment-reply-link' href='/2012/01/15/reparations-samsung-syncmaster-2232bw/?replytocom=27948#respond' data-commentid="27948" data-postid="586" data-belowelement="comment-27948" data-respondelement="respond" data-replyto="Répondre à Reflow Dell 1546 | HugoPoi" aria-label='Répondre à Reflow Dell 1546 | HugoPoi'><svg class="svg-text-color" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" viewBox="0 0 512 512" width="12px" height="12px"><path d="M8.309 189.836L184.313 37.851C199.719 24.546 224 35.347 224 56.015v80.053c160.629 1.839 288 34.032 288 186.258 0 61.441-39.581 122.309-83.333 154.132-13.653 9.931-33.111-2.533-28.077-18.631 45.344-145.012-21.507-183.51-176.59-185.742V360c0 20.7-24.3 31.453-39.687 18.164l-176.004-152c-11.071-9.562-11.086-26.753 0-36.328z"></path></svg>
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<a href='/2016/08/22/reflow-dell-1546/' rel='external nofollow ugc' class='url'>Reflow Dell Inspiron 1546 – HugoPoi</a> <small>
|
||
· 23 juin 2017 à 23 h 18 min </small>
|
||
</h4>
|
||
<p>[…] d’obsolescence « semi-programmée » depuis le billet que j’avais écrit sur la réparation de mon écran Samsung. Ce mois ci j’ai récupéré un pc portable Dell Inspiron 1546 pour être précis. Encore un […]</p>
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<h3 class="hestia-title text-center">Répondre à <a href="#comment-31083">yvan</a> <small><a rel="nofollow" id="cancel-comment-reply-link" href="/2012/01/15/reparations-samsung-syncmaster-2232bw/#respond">Annuler la réponse</a></small></h3> <span class="pull-left author"> <div class="avatar"><img src="/wp-content/themes/hestia/assets/img/placeholder.jpg" height="64" width="64"/></div> </span><form action="https://blog.hugopoi.net/wp-comments-post.php" method="post" id="commentform" class="form media-body"><p class="comment-notes"><span id="email-notes">Votre adresse e-mail ne sera pas publiée.</span> Les champs obligatoires sont indiqués avec <span class="required">*</span></p><div class="row"> <div class="col-md-4"> <div class="form-group label-floating is-empty"> <label class="control-label">Nom <span class="required">*</span></label><input id="author" name="author" class="form-control" type="text" aria-required='true' /> <span class="hestia-input"></span> </div> </div>
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<div id="text-2" class="widget widget_text"><h5>Edito</h5> <div class="textwidget">Bienvenu sur mon blog, ici je parle de bricolage, de web (version de base). Blog perso sans prétention je poste quand j'ai le temps en plus j'aime pas écrire.</div>
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